Torridon Climbing
9-11 September 2005
By Andrew Wilson
It’s a clear blue sky morning in Torridon. We wake early, breakfast quickly, pack our ropes, picnic and midge repellent and then drive round and park the trusty Clio near the Applecross turnoff. By 9.30am we are well on our way up the wild and untracked valley to the base of the Cioch's Nose.
The Cioch's Nose is a classic VDiff (Very Difficult) rock climb, first climbed by Chris Bonington in the early 1960’s, it takes the direct route up an obvious arête leading to Sgurr a Ghaoiacha (Spelling?. Ed) just north of Applecross. While technically straight forward, the route is a long full day outing with the sort of exposure that makes you want to double and triple check all your knots (which of course you do anyway. Ed). There is nothing here you wouldn’t feel comfortable climbing if it was one metre off the ground… but then that’s the thing with rock climbing, it's never just one metre off the ground.
We traverse up to a low saddle, up a rocky ramp and then sidle round the increasingly steep hillside to the start of the climb. There are four of us today… the crack Wilson/Swindle team and the tried and tested Downing/MacDonald team. We untangle ropes, don helmets and harnesses, arrange climbing racks of assorted climbing hardware to jangle irritatingly around our waists and we are ready to go.
Clare belays me as I head off on the first deceptively difficult (to quote the guidebook) pitch, about 30 meters straight up. Actually it wasn’t that tricky but the first pitch of the day is always a bit nerve racking and it’s always good to wind up your fellow climbers. The rock is steep and solid with good friction and good holds which is just what you need to get in the swing. I set up an anchor on a good rocky ledge and Clare climbs up using the skills honed by our weekly Ratho and Trapain Law weekday meets.
Far below Cathie and Martin seem to be making a good approximation of a cat's cradle with Martin's twin mountaineering grade ropes so we decide to start off on the second pitch without waiting. Clare sets up an anchor to belay me up the second pitch and I set off again. The second pitch has a tricky start requiring a wide range of desperate clutching moves to attain a V chimney. You climb up about 5 metres high then a nice move to the right and up to stance on an airy arête. I set up a belay and Clare climbs up swiftly albeit with a few very restrained squawks as the rope goes tight at one point.
At this point both climbing pairs are on the rock. From my stance I can see Cathie and Martin's bright green helmets framed again the darker green vegetation far below. Cathie is “limpet like” against the rock face and I can hear Martin's encouraging words “For God's sake woman, just put your left leg 5 feet above your right ear. It’s easy.” Or words to that effect.
As we move around onto the “nose” proper the ground is now a couple of hundred metres below but feels a lot more now as the climb actually started several hundred meters up from the valley floor. This is when the climb gets interesting. The dropoff becomes mesmerising, the cliff towers above you and ledges start feeling small and insignificant. The gravity demons lurk in the background but it’s perfectly safe as long as you don’t let go. The rock is warm and secure and the smell of rope and chalk and the clink of metal protection against the rock re-assuring. You move upwards from one considered position to the next, savouring each move as you would savour the execution of a perfect telemark. Suddenly you reach the end of the pitch and a wave of euphoria washes over you …. to be swiftly replaced by a wave of fear as you peer up at the blank wall in front of you and you start wondering whether you can cajole your climbing partner to lead the next pitch.
The third pitch is a cracker. A steep, well protected face, exposed but with holds just when you thought you might be getting in trouble. A final “problem” and I am up on a delightful grassy ledge, just wide enough to relax a little. I belay Clare up and we have a bite to eat and watch the birds swirl around and listen to the clink of various metal protection on the rock as Martin and Cathie worked their way up towards us, the efficient business-like communication between climbers ringing out into the still mountain air. “Climb”. “Climb when ready”. “Climbing”. “Tight rope!”. “Tighter”. “TIGHTER”. “#@&%& bl**dy hell”.
The 4th and 5th pitches continue in a similar vein and suddenly we were on the col, the main climb complete. A final sting in the tail and we are standing on the broad plateau admiring the scenery and feeling chuffed with ourselves. A delightful stroll across the top and down to the Applecross road follows. Cathie and I hitch down, grab the car and pick up Martin and Clare. We hit the Applecross pub for a well deserved beer. No otters or dophins were seen from the pub but we declare the day a brilliant success regardless.
Thanks to Martin for route finding, Clare for the new rope, Cathie for conversation and Jim for organising the Torridon weekend that gave us the opportunity to be there in the first place.
Andrew Wilson