The club ski hire scheme is not run by trained ski technicians
and it is the responsibility of individuals who hire gear to check that
it is fit for purpose and properly adjusted for their contemplated use.
Ski touring is a winter mountain activity with all its attendant risks and the possibility of wipeouts, avalanches and steep icy slopes must be taken into account when activities are planned and equipment chosen.
Individuals are responsible for choosing the right equipment for the circumstances and being properly prepared for the conditions they expect to find on their planned trip. It is your responsibility to ensure that you know how to adjust your chosen equipment and check that is fit for purpose.
SKI HIRE SAFETY CHECKLIST
Repair Kit:
If you are going far from base you must assume your kit will fail and carry the necessary emergency repair materials to get you home. Heavy duty sticky tape (gaffer tape) is an invaluable part of any such kit. A few metres of cord (say 2-3 mm diameter) is also invaluable as is a “multi-tool” such as a “leatherman” for adjusting bindings and the odd loose screw. A tool with a crosshead or phillips screwdriver will allow adjustments to the alpine touring equipment and is highly advisable.
Boots:
There are two main types of boots, telemark and alpine touring. Alpine touring boots must be matched with alpine touring (Diamir) bindings. Telemark boots can be matched with telemark (7TM) or cable bindings (Riva). Alpine touring boots have more of a rounded toe. See binding details below for more detail.
You need to check that the buckles are functioning properly and are firmly attached to the boots. You also need to make sure that the buckles will reach comfortably for your feet. There are two buckle sizes on some smaller boots and the small buckles may not reach.
Poles:
You need to make sure you have appropriate poles for your planned route. You need tall poles if you are kick and turning on fairly gentle terrain. You need shorter alpine poles if you are predominantly downhill telemarking. Adjustable poles offer the most flexibility but make sure you can adjust them and that they do not collapse under pressure. The club mostly hires adjustable poles these days.
Skis:
Skis can break so you should visually inspect them for cracks or damage to the structure. The bindings are however the key link between the boot and the ski and where most of the problems occur. Always check that the binding is firmly screwed to the ski and there are no missing screws or damage to the binding body.
Bindings:
The club has three types of bindings: Light touring cable (Riva), medium weight telemark (Garmont 7TM) and "heavy" alpine touring (Diamir Eagle).
The Riva cable bindings are adjusted until "they feel secure" by lengthening or shortening the cable. The 7TM and Diamir binding adjustments are similar to alpine downhill binding adjustments with a "DIN" setting based on height, weight, shoe size and skier ability. Typical DIN values for club skiers are likely to be between 4 and 6. Table1 shows the approximate DIN settings. Only big and/or strong skiers should go higher. Binding adjustments are described below.
1. Riva cable
There are three methods of changing the size of the binding. The first is not practical once you have taken the ski away because it involves changing the actual cable for a shorter or longer one. We have some skis with short and some with long cables. If you aren't sure get short cables, unless you have large feet.
The second and simplest adjustment is a plastic plate at the front of the binding which holds the cable. The nearer slots give longer fittings, the farther slots shorter fittings.
The third form of adjustment is on the cables themselves. On each side of the binding the cable enters the springs which provide the tension and allow you to lock the cable to the slot in the back of the boots by pulling up the heel fastener. There is a threaded insert which a locking nut on the tension spring. This enables fine tuning of the degree of tension in the cable. A stiffer setting gives more control in the descents but makes it harder to kick and glide.
Warning. If you are using Riva bindings you need to give particular attention to ensuing these locking nuts are tight and remain tight. The cable is retained within the rear heel springs by two small circlips, if the locking nuts are slack the binding can come apart and the circlip falls out. This is a potential major problem. If you are touring backcountry or on a hut to hut tour it is highly advisable to carry spare circlips in your tool kit. If you damage the clips that hold the cables to the binding the rivets may pull out, so you should inspect these regularly. Gaffer tape can effect an emergency mend.
2. Garmont 7TM
** These bindings only release properly if used in conjunction with Telemark plastic boots **
The basic adjustment for length of boot is very simply done with the knurled nut on the back of the binding. This moves the heel piece closer or further from the toepiece according to the way you turn the nut. With the boot toe firmly in the front of the binding, when the heel lever will fit between the slot in the back of the boot comfortably, try raising the lever. You should need to exert reasonable force to pull up the lever but not excessive. If it is difficult to undo the heel release there is too much tension and you should lengthen the binding. Having the binding too tight has no benefits and shortens the binding life.
The setting of the release pressure is equally straightforward and is controlled by the adjuster on the front of the release plate on the ski. You will need a small coin or screwdriver to adjust this setting.
3. Diamir Eagle
** These bindings only release properly if used in conjunction with Alpine Touring plastic boots.**
There are four adjustments required, all of which require a crosshead or phillips screwdriver, although practically only the first is likely to be needed.
(1) Boot length. There is a crosshead/phillips screw at the "heel" end of the aluminium base bar. Adjusting this will cause the heel binding assembly to move back and forth. The millimetre setting is clearly labeled on the aluminium bar and should be adjusted to the size of the boot. The boot size in mm is found on every alpine touring boot (e.g. 340mm).
Note there are two binding sizes (clearly labelled on the aluminium base bar): small (SM) which fits boot sizes 260->315, and medium (ML) which fits boot sizes 285-340. Check that the binding can actually accomodate the boot size before you start adjusting.
(2) Heel DIN setting. This screw is located on top of the heel assembly (makes sure the black lever on the heel assembly is fully up). It is adjusted from above. A setting between 4 and 6 is normal.
(3) Toe DIN setting. The screw is located below the toe piece and is visible looking side on to the binding. It will be set to the same DIN setting as the heel binding.
(4) Toe piece size. This screw is located immediately on top of the white toe piece. It is adjusted from the top until the protruding boot toe sits snugly in the toe piece.
Table 1. Standard ISO DIN 11088 chart for average skier
|
Weight |
Weight |
Height |
Height |
Boot size (approx) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
25/25.5 |
26/26.5 |
27/28 |
29+ |
|
< 125 |
< 56 |
< 5ft 1 |
< 155 |
4 |
3.5 |
3.5 |
3 |
|
126-47 |
57-66 |
5ft 2-5ft 5 |
157-165 |
5 |
4.5 |
4 |
3.5 |
|
148-174 |
67-79 |
5ft 6-5ft 10 |
167-177 |
6 |
5.5 |
5 |
4.5 |
|
175-209 |
79-95 |
5ft 11-6ft 4 |
180-197 |
7 |
6.5 |
5 |
5.5 |
|
210+ |
96+ |
6ft 5 + |
198+ |
8 |
8 |
7 |
6.5 |
|
|
|
|
|
10 |
9.5 |
8.5 |
8 |
Table 2. Ski boot "Mondo" scale compared standard shoe sizes and the likely boot sole width.
| Shoe size | Boot sole width |
||
| Mondo (ski boot) |
UK | Euro |
mm |
|
24
|
5.5
|
38
|
270- |
|
24.5
|
6
|
39
|
270- |
|
25
|
6.5
|
40
|
271-290 |
|
25.5
|
7
|
40.5
|
271-290 |
|
26
|
7.5
|
41
|
291-310 |
|
26.5
|
8
|
42
|
291-310 |
|
27
|
8.5
|
43
|
311-330 |
|
27.5
|
9
|
43.5
|
311-330 |
|
28
|
9.5
|
44
|
311-330 |
|
28.5
|
10
|
44.5
|
311-330 |
|
29
|
10.5
|
45
|
331+ |
|
29.5
|
11
|
45.5
|
331+ |
|
30
|
11.5
|
46
|
331+ |
Ski leashes:
You should use ski leashes (or brakes) in all areas where there are likely to be other people below you on the slope. They are a requirement in all downhill ski areas. They are not essential on flat undulating terrain but on steeper slopes are a must. If you have assessed there to be a risk of avalanche, ski leashes should be undone so you are not dragged down by your skis.
Skins:
If you are relying on skins for uphill traction you must check they are well glued (sticky) and have appropriate tip and heel fittings. These will typically be matched to a particular ski length.
All skis without "fishscale" soles require skins unless you are skilled in using waxes and the terrain is not too steep.
Skins should be attached to the front tip of the ski first then smoothed down onto the ski base with the palm of your hand.
Note that heel fittings are not strictly necessary and a skin will stay happily glued to the bottom if it is shorter than the end of the ski. Just make sure it is smoothed down firmly when applying the skin. Alternatively, if the skin is about 10 cm longer than the ski, it can be stuck down on the top of the ski.
© Copyright Edinburgh Ski Touring Club 2009. e-mail: webmaster@estc.org.uk Last updated Dec 2009